At any age, maintaining healthy skin is important. The skin plays a crucial role in helping maintain healthy organs and keeping us feeling and looking our best. The term “peptides” has been circulating in the anti-aging skincare industry, but do you know what they are and what their purpose is? Are they worth the cost? According to two leading dermatologists, the answer is a resounding “yes.” As it turns out, peptides are extremely important when it comes to skincare ingredients.

What are peptides exactly? 

Before delving into peptides, it is essential to comprehend amino acids. According to renowned New York City-based dermatologist and author Dr. Whitney Bowe, “Peptides are composed of amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins in our body, such as collagen in the skin. Without these proteins, wrinkles, brittle nails, and brittle hair that is vulnerable to breakage will be witnessed.” 

Why you need them for your skin

Experts explain that despite peptides being already present in our body, we still need more of them due to aging. Dr. Deanne Mraz Robinson, partner at Modern Dermatology in Westport, CT, states that people lose 1% of their collagen every year after the age of 30 and our skin’s natural communication channels become weaker as we age.

Peptides are a key component of the skin, having an effect on texture, firmness and overall appearance. They are actually everywhere in human cells, and a necessary part of the body’s functioning. According to Dr. Robinson, “Peptides are essential for the body to work properly. They are used to create enzymes, hormones and energy. They essentially work as “messengers” in the skin, communicating with cells to stimulate collagen production. Because of this, peptides can help reduce wrinkles, even out skin tone, and improve overall texture. They can also be used to help treat conditions such as eczema and rosacea. 

Different types of peptides

When it comes to skincare, the efficacy of peptides can be very different. According to Dr. Robinson, certain peptides are more beneficial than others. Here are a few different types of peptides and what they do. 

• Carrier peptides: these are used to transport trace minerals to the skin, which in turn increases collagen production. 
• Enzyme inhibitor peptides: These slow down the skin’s natural collagen breakdown. (We love how this one sounds.)
• Signal peptides: These peptides communicate with various parts of the skin to promote collagen, elastin, and other proteins. 
• Neurotransmitter peptides: These are often compared to Botox, as they block the release of chemicals responsible for the muscle movement that leads to expression lines, thus smoothing wrinkles.

How to get more peptides in your skincare

Although putting peptides on the skin may not directly increase their presence, the way they work is more sophisticated, according to Dr. Bowe. She states that peptides are seen as “signals” to the body that it needs to start the healing process. For instance, if someone is trying to recover from an ankle injury, the peptides will encourage the body to focus its repair efforts in that particular area. Additionally, if one’s skin is showing premature signs of aging, the peptides will trigger the skin to produce more collagen and hyaluronic acid to plump and restore its healthy barrier. When these peptides are used in the form of a moisturizer or serum, they trick the skin into believing that there has been a wound, prompting it to produce more collagen.

Dr Bowe suggests using topical skin care products with peptides. She emphasizes the necessity of evaluating the product’s formulation in regards to its stability and potential to penetrate the skin barrier. Make sure to check on the back of the product for the ingredients. If you’re not sure where to start, consult with a dermatologist to help you pick the best product containing peptide ingredients.