If you’re interested in youthful, smooth skin chances are you have heard about the wonders of retinol. It can be a great tool for reducing fine lines, wrinkles and blemishes, resulting in brighter and smoother skin.  However, it also has some potential side effects which can lead some people to be cautious about using it. Not to mention there are many retinol myths that leave more questions about how and if it will work for you. To clear up the retinol confusion, we looked to the experts.  Dr. Adam Friedman, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist, Ali Tobia, a licensed esthetician, Julia Siegel, MD, and Marnie Nussbaumm, (both board-certified dermatologists) break down the facts.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is added to skin creams, lotions, and serums. It has anti-aging effects and can help clear acne, increase skin cell and collagen production, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. It’s important to note that not all Retinoids are the same and each has its own unique characteristics.

In order to properly make use of a retinol product, it is essential to understand the various choices you have. Prescription retinol and over the counter retinol are very different. Tobia states, “Prescription-only retinoids like Tretinoin (also known as Retin-A), Isotretinoin (commonly referred to as Accutane), and Tazarotene (a powerful retinoid prescribed to treat psoriasis and sometimes acne) are all available.” She continues, “Over-the-counter retinoids are more comprehensive but still maintain their effectiveness for anti-aging and are usually created to be more gentle on the skin.”

How does retinol work?

To put it simply, retinol works by neutralizing the free radicals in the middle layer of your skin. This can lead to the reduction of enlarged pores and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

The 3 myths about retinol

Let’s look at a few common myths and misconceptions to debunk once and for all. 

1. Retinoids work by Exfoliating your skin. 

This is not true. When it comes to exfoliation, we tend to think of facial scrubs and chemical peels. However, according to Friedman, retinol works differently – it does not cause the skin to peel like an alpha hydroxy acid such as glycolic acid; rather, the ‘exfoliation’ noted is a much more gradual process, where retinol regulates how the skin is made.

2. Retinol thins your skin.

Contrary to popular belief, Siegel states that Retinol does not thin the skin, but rather, it leads to the compaction of the stratum corneum, resulting in a thicker epidermis. However, it’s not advisable to put it under the eyes. Friedman states that treating the area surrounding the eyes with retinol is possible, but he emphasizes that caution should be taken; the skin here is thin and can easily absorb the product, which may lead to irritation. If you wish to use retinol in this area, he suggests applying moisturizer to damp skin and wearing sun protection.

3. It should be applied to dry skin. 

Wrong again! If you have ever read the instructions for using retinol, you may have seen the phrase “Apply on dry skin.” This might seem straightforward, but if you’re the type to do your skincare routine in the shower, you may have questioned if it’s a must. According to Friedman, it’s not necessary to apply retinol to dry skin; however, he did suggest that “applying it to dry skin will reduce the penetration, thus minimizing irritation.” Therefore, if you have sensitive skin, it’s probably best to stick to the instructions.

Now that we have cleared up some of the confusion, onward to growing skin!